Keeping busy. I have being taken the sub frame on and off making tweeks to the mounting point and the steering rack position keeping and eye on clearance. I have used heavy wall pipe to build the link under the engine, I plan on putting in some strengthen pieces the next time its out, the tube may look weedy compared to the BMW sub-frame, but the std sub frame is made from very light material, its only 1.5 mm thick, plenty when its welded together, mine is a bit heavier, I have made up new engine mounts, I had planned to use the M52’s ones but they would make the steering rack mounting too awkward on the rhs and was on top of the wish bone bolt on the lhs, a few snaps of progress.
Rack connection clearance is very good;
RHS engine mount;
LHS engine mount.
I welded back on the std mount bracket and used the std E30 engine mounts.
I got a few hrs to spare today and got the E46 ARB mounted up, I haven’t it fully welded yet, I plan on putting the car on a spit later on and all the welding will be don’t then. I also got round to pulling out the windscreen and side glass and repairing the scuttle panel where she is rotten. There was heaps of Shultz piled in here from the factory, I heat it up with an hot air gun and hoked it out with a wood chisel and a wire brush on the good old dewalt. It was only the outer skin that was bad, underneath it was perfect.
I used 50 mm box section and welded in some M 10 bolts to make swaping the bushings easy, I used the E46 mounts on the arb.
I cut the rot out back to clean metal.
Fabed up a repair and miged it in. tidied up the weld and test fit the wing and bonnet.
The front rhs corner was a bit out of shape, so I straightened it out a bit, nothing too serious.
Took off the sunroof panel, its shagged. Going by the picture, it doesn’t look too bad, but when I shake it, It sound like its full of sand or gravel, one of the over moulded nuts on the runner broke straight off and snapped the plastic.
I decided to remove the sunroof frame, as with the head liner gone the drivers side is not pretty.
I looked good old google and found where the spot welds are and a few tips on removing the frame. There are 5 spots on the opening 3 at the front and one at each side.
5 spots at the B post (Close to it) inside the car, careful drilling required, The roof skin is very close.
The net suggests cutting the welds in these is enough, but I found they need to be cut through so the adhesive can be cut The panel needs a slight pull, I used a ratchet strap, very light pressure, from the floor of the car to the panel. Probably not completely necessary if you had a helping hand, but I was on my own.
A paint scraper and a heat gun next, heat the adhesive (till is starts to smoke/bubble), it only takes a minute or so with a heat gun, push the scraper through the adhesive.
I used the scraper to break the B post spots as well, just to be sure.
From the top.
From the bottom., If the spot welds are not gone, the roof skin will be damaged.
Some parts of the adhesive cant be reached with a regular scraper, so super scraper was introduced, I used a piece of alloy extrusion and drilled out the rivets off the scraper, stuck a few screws through the holes. I have shown how the scraper worked with it new extra long reach, once the adhesive is hot, you can push the scraper through by hand, no need for the hammer.
Frame out, it fits through the windscreen or rear wind openings.
There is a lot of surface rust on the roof skin, Looks like the paint just pealed off, there is no red paint in here, so I guess the sprayers miss this bit, hence the rust. Pity.
The heat gun is your friend for this job.
New rot revealed. Till next week.
Weather here is terrible today, so out to the garage for some metal bashing.
I took off the roof support today, Its pretty crusty, but it actually intact, a sand blast and some etch primer should see it back in service, Its welded at both sides and bonded towards the rear of the car, I heated up the adhesive and used super scraper to break the joint. The roof skin is all surface rust, the metal is good under the crud, there was a small hole showing thru the roof as a pick of rust but it welded up easily enough, a few pictures.
First I had to open up the joint where the opening meets at the rear of the sunroof opening. I used a steel nail to ease the joint to open up a bit to get hold of the lip.
Super scraper in action again, (what a tool, unending possibilities)
Mid roof support out.
The frame itself.
Under the frame on the passenger side. Bit iffy, you can see the flaking paint.
Roof frame sand blasted and in etch primer. looks new now.
Removed the LHS inner wing support.
To get access to this. It will be chopped out soon.
Repairing the scabby LHS corner is not so bad once the way in has being cleared. I just built it up piece by piece. I plug welded where the spot welds were. I filled up the drilled holes so I could weld them back where they were welded originally. A few pic’s.
Some fresh meat added.
Filled in the drilled holes and cleaned up.
Loads of clamps, there are two holes that are not welded, these don’t seam to be aligned up 100% from the factory, but I took some liberty’s with some gutter bolts.
All back on. Nothing happened here…
Now I have found another wee spot that needs some attention, the carpets were a bit wet, this lad might be responsible.
Where the main loom passes through the bulk head.
From the inside, a rub of a wire brush on a grinder reveals some more rot and a hole into the wheel well.
From the wheel well.
I got the Megasquirts ECU last week. Interesting, I got the MS3X which will control 8 cylinders full sequential injection and COP’s and VVT along with a host of other bits n bobs. Really looking forward to hooking this up.