Got the 2 part sunroof seal from classic BMW, fast dispatch and DHL to the door. Picked up a new sun roof winder handle. The old one is shagged at the rear circlip.
I had a small issue with my throttle linkage, it was a bit snappy from idle. The reason was the angle and length of the link on the s54 tb’s ( well my messing really) I made a new one, longer and drilled the bolt hole for a less upright angle.
A few wee snaps.
New link V old.
Fitted, Nice smooth throttle now.
I have being looking to the throttle body trumpets for a while now, I have decided to make my own, Anything that I can buy wont fit straight on, I have come up with an initial design, I would like to keep them open just for the looks and not add sponge type air filters. I could use cone air filters but the ones I can find with a 57mm bore to fit over the TB’s are huge in outside diameter. So here is what I come up with so far, The design is not set in stone yet, I will thin down the wall a bit, I have CNC’d the parts and will get them anodised when I am happy with the fit.
The idea. It’s a two part design which screw together, One part fits over the throttle body and the trumpet is screwed on from the back so I can add some fine mesh in the center to stop bits falling in.
Taped together for now.
Bit of alloy expanded metal, no loose wires to fall off, I will add 4 holes to allow for some screws, you can see what I have planned on the drawing underneath.
From research trumpet length will effect where power is made, I am winging it at the min but info from the net suggests 50 -100 mm to the butter fly, I should have 75mm when I am finished. the whole length of the induction system will effect power, from the inlet valve to the end of the trumpet. A rolling road is the only way of proving this out, I guess I can add length if necessary easily enough.
Got a bit of painting done the weekend. I was surprised how many stone chips were on the bonnet. They are all small but lots of them, I filled all of them, sanded and primed, sanded down again and again, put on some colour today, turned out pretty well, I gave the drivers side a lick as well. I have all the car back red now, I will sand the car down again where necessary and give the car a final coat or two.
I also picked up these bad boys a few months back. 7J for the front and 8J for the rear.
I think the 8J will clear the arch’s no bother but if not I have an arch roller.
After finding a clean sunroof panel, removing the sunroof cassette, sorting the rot, getting the new seals and winder handle, you would think sunroof issues would be resolved, dooh. After a quick bench trial of all the parts, I noticed on rotating the new handle it is a bit move and no move, I know the handle has a quarter gear setup when turning, I guess it’s a way of making the handle easier to turn, but I could not help myself ripping it up and I found an issue, the metal cable drive gear is worn out with teeth missing.
This gear is unavailable separate, PN: 54 12 1 857 958 is the whole unit which costs €70 ish plus the vat man’s cut. I checked and was told one is available. I like a challenge and this is a red rag to me. Off to work. This is a standard gear of module 0.8. (gear sizing) with 19 teeth. 15 spline’s in the center . I do have access to an EDM wire machine and I can use it. I done up a quick program and on my second attempt I got it right. The gear teeth are not straight but off by half a tooth over 4mm.
I am going to make a few up and harden them, If anyone is stuck for a simple fix, drop me a message. I am sure the same gear is on the electric motors roof’s as well.
I got the trumpets machined up, I will get them clear anodized to stop them from corroding. I took a few pictures to show how the expanded metal is trap in the center.
Assembly: (“retro cars” in the back ground ) I used 4 socket heat cap M3 screws,( A2, stainless)
On the itb’s , I have them a push fit on the itb’s, they just push on. I will put a smear of gasket seal on when anodized.
Pretty happy with the result. I cant start it at the min due to painting, I have the ecu and a few other electrical components removed to keep them clean.
Also started the final sanding, hopefully, using 280 grid wet and then 400 wet. I found a few dings, I used find blocker to fill them, they are small but might as well try catch them all. I am sure once I have it in final paint I will have missed one or two.
I got round to painting it today. Very happy with the result. Normally I mix 2 parts paint, 1 part hardener and 10% thinners. For the final coat I mix 2 parts paint, 1 part hardener and 20% thinners which really helps flatten out the paint, You can only give it one coat or it will run here and there especially on the sides of the car, bonnet and roof areas can be hit twice, I still get a little orange peal but the extra 10% thinners really helps out. I used HB body 727 hardener which is what they call polar hardener, its mega fast cure for cold weather.
I will let it sit for a week and start reassembly starting at the roof and work my way down, I don’t plan on changing much more, pretty standard.